Olá pessoal, sou iniciante e, apesar de só participar de uns top ropes e não me atrever a guiar ainda, tenho lido um pouco sobre o assunto para entender melhor o processo inteiro de escalada. Me surgiu uma dúvida: Nos guias que leio, é frisado bastante a necessidade da equalização das paradas em dois ou mais grampos (ou móveis, etc.) por questões de segurança. Entretanto, olhando alguns croquis de vias daqui do Brasil me deu a impressão que várias vezes paradas são feitas em um grampo só. É assim mesmo? E nesse caso, como são montadas as paradas? É passado um mosquetao pelo grampo e tudo é pendurado nesse mosquetão?
São raríssimas as vias onde a parada só é feita com um "P", e elas são normalmente em platôs extremamente confortáveis e onde não são realizados rapeis nesse ponto e essas vias normalmente são clássicas e antigas. Ao ler um croqui um "X" é proteção e dois "X X" é parada. Se puder postar a foto de um croqui aqui para analisarmos juntos seria bacana. Grande abraço
Obrigado pela resposta Bispo! Existe sim uma grande possibilidade de eu estar interpretando os croquis erroneamente, pois sou mesmo iniciante. Segue um dos croquis que me gerou duvida, daqui de niterói, RJ: Estou certo em dizer que o ponto preto grande significa uma parada? Se sim, ali o que eu acho ser a primeira parada tem dois grampos, mas as subsequentes parecem ter um só. Pensando bem, acho que a via acima se enquadra na sua descrição de clássica, e não possui um nível tão alto, certo? Abraços! Editado: reparei assim que postei! A proteção dupla fica logo abaixo do lance mais difícil. As partes mais fáceis não tem proteção dupla porque se o cara passa pelo V ele não deve cair no III, então não justifica dois grampos. Acertei?
Sim, os pontos pretos são paradas! É uma via antiga heimm, eu não acho ser uma via clássica mas é sim uma escalada tradicional, e imagino que os conquistadores colocaram uma única proteção por não existir a necessidade do rapel e pela graduação baixa da via.
Fifo, antes de se ancorar na parada com uma única proteção faça um teste dando uns trancos puxando com uma costura, a via está na costa e perto do mar então ela pode estar corroída por causa da maresia. Como esta iniciando sugiro evitar esses tipos de vias.
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