Um aspecto geralmente negligenciado na escalada, é o psicológico. Em um dos primeiros estudos que se tem conhecimento, Fitz (1897) afirma que a prática esportiva é um meio de se preparar para a vida, por promover a capacidade de julgamento, habilidade de perceber as condições corretamente e a habilidade de reagir rapidamente a um ambiente mutável. Porém, nós te perguntamos: você tem uma perfeita capacidade de julgamento? Se sim, porque muitas vezes travou no meio de uma via achando que não ia conseguir e quando a coragem apareceu simplesmente mandou? Esse “congelamento” geralmente acontece devido ao medo, pois a necessidade de vencermos obstáculos em altura acaba deixando nosso cérebro em colapso (rs…risada de quem já sofreu deste medo). Para pessoas pouco familiarizadas com o esporte, a relação entre “medo” e “esporte” pode parecer estranha, principalmente quando se entende esporte como algo mais amplo, como forma de satisfazer às necessidades de saúde, de movimento, de rendimento e sociais. Porém, para nós, que, além de vivenciarmos o esporte, também o praticamos em altura, essa relação medo/esporte é absolutamente familiar. No entanto, se não aprendermos a lidar com nossos fantasmas, jamais progrediremos na escalada. Em 3 passos tentaremos ajudar no controle do medo: Elabore uma lista das situações que provocam medo. Depois as organize de forma crescente; Aprenda a relaxar, pois de acordo com Birbaumer (1975) em situações de estresse e medo, pode-se contar uma elevação da frequência cardíaca e também da pressão arterial. Como você terá uma lista de situações, pense nelas, respire calmamente (para controlar a frequência cardíaca) e imagine quais movimentos deverá realizar para cumprir a tarefa. Finalmente apresente-se a situação de medo. Quando o dia da escalada chegar, coloque em prática a estratégia citada acima, mas agora na rocha. Nossa sugestão é que você entre em auto (na costura anterior ao temido movimento), respire calmamente e analise exatamente qual deverá ser o posicionamento correto de seu corpo para concluir a tarefa. De acordo com Birbaumer, cada situação deve ser apresentada até que ela não provoque mais medo, então caso você não consiga da primeira vez repita até conseguir. Por fim, em nosso esporte, certa quantidade de medo é necessária para chamar a atenção do desportista sobre riscos inerentes a certos procedimentos, prevenindo possíveis acidentes. No entanto, se você é um escalador responsável, e está com todos os equipamentos de segurança (em dia e bem ajustados), o medo torna-se negativo, pois impede a aquisição de novas habilidades, essenciais para a melhora do rendimento. Agora que você já aprendeu a controlar seu medo, sinta-se livre para comentar: qual foi a pior situação de medo que já passou escalando? referências BIRBAUMER, N. (1975). Physiologische psychologie. Berlin: Springer. BROCHADO, M. (2002) O medo no Esporte. Motriz. Fitz, G. W. (1897). Play as a factor in development. American Physical Educacion Review, 2, p.209-215. Publicado por True Climbing Brasil
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