Ao reler o excelente livro "Os conquistadores do Inútil" de Lionel Terray me deparei novamente com um bom texto a respeito da pior queda desse grande montanhista. A narrativa dele sobre o que passou em sua cabeça nesse momento é bem parecido com o se que passa na cabeça de todo mundo que tem uma experiência desse tipo. Para a multidão de profanos, a escalada de uma montanha difícil não passa de uma série de acrobacias dramáticas cujos heróis só escapam à morte devido a uma energia sobre-humana combinada para sorte deles com acasos milagrosos. Na verdade, este gênero de odisséias acontece às vezes a principiantes temerários destinados às "primeiras páginas" dos grandes diários, mas nunca a verdadeiros alpinistas. Se o alpinismo fosse tão perigoso como as lendas o querem fazer crer, a lei das probabilidades nunca teria permitido a homens como Heckmair, Solza ou Cassin sobreviverem a dezenas, e até a centenas, de escaladas de extrema dificuldade que marcam a sua carreira. O público ignora completamente que, em primeiro lugar, como o atletismo e o ciclismo, o alpinismo comporta numerosas especialidades bastante diferentes uma das outras e de perigo desigual; depois, todas estas especialidades comportam uma técnica complexa e de demorada aprendizagem. É certo que, só em França, os acidentes de montanha causam todos os anos a morte de trinta a cinquenta pessoas, o que, aliás, se considerarmos que existem cerca de quinze mil alpinistas praticantes, não é um número excessivamente elevado. Lionel Terray e Guido Magnone na incrível conquista do Fitz-Roy Mas o que se ignora é que nove décimos dos acidentes acontecem a principiantes temerários ou a escaladores que ultrapassaram as suas possibilidades técnicas. É tão estúpido e imprudente lançar-se numa ascensão sem ter primeiro aprendido a técnica necessária como querer conduzir um avião sem ter aprendido a pilotar. Da mesma forma, quando se é um alpinista mediano, é tão arriscado realizar uma escalada de alta escola como querer tentar um looping quando só se sabe descolar. O público pensa que a queda no vazio é o maior perigo. Puro engano. Entre os alpinistas qualificados, a maior parte dos acidentes são provocados pela deslocação dos blocos de pedra ou de gelo que, caindo sobre os flancos da montanha, lhes batem à passagem. Se a escalada não for de grande dificuldade, um bom escalador não corre praticamente o risco de cair. Quando a dificuldade se torna maior, isto é, quando os pontos de apoio são pequenos e raros, a parede é vertical ou em cornija, o alpinista espeta então no gelo, ou a maior parte das vezes nas brechas da rocha, um ou mais pitons metálicos munidos de sólidos estribos nos quais passa a corda que o liga ao companheiro. Estes pitons destinam-se a evitar a queda do escalador no caso de ele se soltar. Como é raro subir mais de dez metros sem encontrar uma brecha na rocha ou espetar um piton, as quedas são geralmente de cinco a dez metros, e muito excepcionalmente de vinte metros, ou seja, dez metros acima e dez metros abaixo do piton. Pessoalmente, em cerca de vinte anos de prática intensiva tive uma dezena de quedas sérias entre os quatro e os vinte metros. Este número é aliás considerado elevado. Mas só um destes "voos" me ia custando a vida. Foi em 1942, algum tempo depois da escalada da garganta do Caimão. Quando a batata recolhida estava já guardada na cave e rachada a lenha para o Inverno, dispunha de alguns dias de liberdade antes da estação fria. Deixando a quinta entregue aos cuidados de minha mulher, parti com Gaston em direção à única zona normalmente acessível naquela estação: as enseadas de Marselha. Como já sabemos, Rebuffat nasceu na capital da Provença; a mãe ainda lá vivia e deu-nos pousada. Todas as manhãs partíamos para escalar algumas das elegantes agulhas brancas e das imponentes falésias que, às portas da cidade, permitem ascensões em miniatura, por vezes de extrema dificuldade. Havia três dias que nos entregávamos a este divertimento agradável, quando atacamos um itinerário chamado La Boufigue. A parede era vertical e eu encontrava-me à cabeça da cordada, a uns 60 metros de altura. De repente, o piton a que me segurava desencravou-se e, antes que tivesse tempo de compreender fosse o que fosse, encontrei-me em pleno vazio, de cabeça para baixo. O segundo piton, que estava a quatro ou cinco metros abaixo de mim, foi arrancado pelo choque sem me suavizar a queda. Vendo o chão aproximar-se a uma velocidade vertiginosa, julguei que ambas as minhas cordas se tinham partido e que ia esmagar-me no sopé da falésia; o espírito começou a trabalhar a uma velocidade fantástica e, em poucas fracções de segundo, consegui pensar na minha mãe, na minha mulher e em muitas outras coisas. Não tive a menor sensação de medo. A ideia de que ia morrer dentro de instantes não me dava qualquer espécie de angústia. A minha personalidade assistia à queda mais como espectador do que como ator. Senti um violento choque no peito. E tive de me render à evidência: não estava morto, mas apenas suspenso em pleno vazio na ponta da corda. O regresso à vida pareceu-me doloroso; sentia uma forte dor abaixo dos rins e a corda abafava-me. De repente senti-me assaltado por todos os problemas da existência, mesmo os mais mesquinhos: como ia eu conseguir livrar-me daquela situação? Não estaria gravemente ferido? Poderia esquiar no próximo Inverno? Que descompostura não ia apanhar da minha mulher?... Só mais tarde compreendi que não tinha morrido por um cabelo. Uma das duas cordas de cânhamo com que eu estava amarrado tinha-se partido e o mosquetão, de um metal muito leve, tinha-se aberto. Se a corda que ficou inteira não se tivesse prendido na porca do fecho, era um homem morto! Texto retirado do livro: "Os conquistadores do inútil" escrito pelo próprio Lionel Terray. Por Hugo
Adoro ler sobre as conquistas dos grandes alpinistas. Mesmo quando detalhes técnicos são, as vezes escassos, pode se aprender muito. Mais ainda admiro a coragem, considerando os equipamentos rudimentar e vestimentas que usaram. "Uma das duas cordas de cânhamo com que eu estava amarrado tinha-se partido e o mosquetão, de um metal muito leve, tinha-se aberto. Se a corda que ficou inteira não se tivesse prendido na porca do fecho, era um homem morto!" Acostumado com equipamento moderno, se alguém me convidasse para escalar uma via de 5° ou 6° grau, usando uma corda de cânhamo amarrado na cintura, de pé descalço ( pois é, naquela época não havia Vibram, os lances mais difícil se escalava sem calçado) eu ia desistir. Esses caras eram durões !
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