Rannveiga Amodt é uma escaladora norueguesa que vive cá e lá entre a Noruega e o Colorado nos EUA. Patrocinada por diversas marcas fortes do mercado outdoor, Ran além de excelente atleta, é instrutora certificada de yoga e treina o time de jovens escaladores da Noruega. Forte e determinada é o mínimo que posso concluir ao ver suas fotos em ação, principalmente após ler um dos relatos mais emocionantes sobre um acidente de escalada que já vi. Durante uma escalada esportiva em abril de 2012, com seu marido Nathan Welton na Turquia, Rannveiga Amodt sofreu uma queda severa de aproximadamente 15 metros após cometer um erro bobo, mas que a quase matou e transformou sua vida para sempre.
Minha vida virou de cabeça baixo, mas agora está acima. É hora de atualizar. Onde eu começo? Sinto que uma vida inteira passou desde a última vez que escrevi. Nossas vidas estão cheias de momentos de transformação, em 26 de abril de 2012 - Eu e meu marido Nathan acordamos naquela manhã num utópico bangaló rodeado por um pomar de romãs nas montanhas da Turquia. O sol nascente acendeu lentamente nossa minúscula cabana, e os pequenos pássaros começaram a flutuar pelo jardim. Eu rolei e perguntei-lhe inocentemente como ele pensava que eu ia morrer. Ele me abraçou e disse "de velhice". "Por que você está se perguntando isso?" Decidimos viver grande naquele dia e pedimos um grande café da manhã da cozinha no acampamento dos escaladores. Queijo turco, azeitonas, frutas, iogurte. Era primavera. A vida era tão fresca. Nós nos sentamos no café e analisando o guia, decidimos quais das inúmeras rotas clássicas que gostaríamos nesse dia. Finalmente, conseguimos ir para o setor Sarkit, com as linhas originais que tem arrastado escaladores de diversas partes do mundo. Depois de alguns alongamentos, Nathan escalou uma via que percorrida uma linha através de uma caverna, chegou ao topo e desceu. Seus movimentos eram bonitos, estético, técnico e atlético. Eu queria proteger uma antiga lesão no ombro, então eu decidi escalar de top rope, entrei no final da corda que ainda estava clipada nas costuras até chagar na parada, ou seja, durante a escalada de top rope, eu tiraria a corda das costuras até chagar na parada. Nesse momento dois alpinistas ingleses chegaram e também quiseram subir de top rope depois de nós, então decidimos que eu enquanto escalava de top rope poderia proteger e passar a corda deles. Dessa forma, isso permitiria que nossos amigos escalassem com segurança. Movi-me fluidamente para cima das tufas, meus pés dançando de lado a lado nas micro-bordas, minhas mãos beliscando características de pedra calcária. Eu cheguei na parada e me clipei diretamente em dois bolts onde tinha uma corrente. Eu tive que arrumar um emaranhado de corda, então eu me desclipei da parada, desenrolei a corda e me clipei novamente na parada. Eu estava na mesma posição da foto abaixo, e eu estava clipada nas correntes. É aí que ocorreu um golpe sutil e inócuo da minha mente, por hábito, na zona de conforto de muitos anos de escalada . Olhei para baixo e vi a corda dos ingleses na via e esqueci que essa corda não tinha seg pois sua extremidade estava solta. Eu sempre estou guiando e pouco escalo de top rope, e pensei que a corda estava conectada na Nathan. "Me pegou?", Gritei. Ele se recostou, sentiu tensão e gritou "tá na minha!". Eu me soltei das correntes. Então eu caí. Isto é do diário do marido Nathan: Ainda posso vê-la cair: em uma posição sentada com os braços estendidos que faziam pequenos círculos no sentido horário, como um pássaro que cai do ninho. Eu ainda sinto meus intestinos se aninharem vendo a corda correr com cada novo metro que ela mergulhou. Ela fez um barulho estrondoso - o mesmo som que ela fazia quando deixava cair um prato - e eu ouço o mal-humorado nauseamento do impacto; O som dos ossos quebrando e a carne que se rasga; O eco sem fôlego e poderoso da minha voz enquanto eu gritava ajuda para as pastagens vazias abaixo. Eu ainda sinto o cheiro de seu sangue quando ela despejou de sua cabeça e em minhas mãos, encharcando minhas roupas e calcário abaixo. Lembro-me de escorregar nele, incapaz de me estabilizar enquanto eu tentava estabilizar sua espinha. Lembro-me da sensação de secar o sangue na minha pele, puxando meu cabelo toda vez que movi meus braços ou pernas. Eu beijei sua testa, e o sangue secou na minha barba, e eu me lembrei disso enquanto chorava porque meu rosto se contorceu e o sangue seco puxou meus bigodes. Uma águia circundava a cabeça e o ar ainda estava, senti que todo o caos e violência do mundo tinham pousado nos meus ombros. Tudo aconteceu de repente e se tornou um pesadelo. Lembro-me do gosto primordial e metálico do medo. Ela tinha ossos saindo de seus tornozelos, ossos saindo para fora de seu cotovelo, e ambos os pés estavam grotescamente torcidos a 90 graus para o lado. Ela não podia mover as pernas, o quadril estava quebrado, as costas quebradas, os pés quebrados, os dentes quebrados, e ela tinha um corte sangrento profundo na cabeça. Ela estava gritando com aquele sol turco ardente. "Onde eu estou?", Ela chorou, "O que aconteceu?" Eu disse a ela para respirar, agradecido por ela estar, naquele momento, ainda viva. Eu não sabia o que fazer com tanto trauma e eu não sabia se ela estava sangrando por dentro. Então me acalmei e segurei sua mão. E me perguntei silenciosamente enquanto gritava se assim fosse como eu ia perder a minha esposa, se assim fosse como tudo, como uma cena em um filme, olhando para seus grandes olhos azuis enquanto sua vida lentamente se afastava e eles se fecharam para Uma última vez. Doze meses se passaram desde que eu bati no chão daquele 15m de queda livre. Eu quebrei minha pelve em três pedaços e quebrei 3 vértebras e meu cotovelo. Quebrei ambos os tornozelos e destruí uma série de ossos nos meus pés e pernas. Depois de duas cirurgias na Turquia, uma viagem de ambulância aérea pela metade da Europa e cirurgias adicionais na Noruega, passei meses confinados a uma cama e uma cadeira de rodas. Eu vivia em uma armadura traseira e não podia colocar os pés no chão. O tempo no hospital e nos centros de reabilitação foi o mais difícil da minha vida. Aceitei minha situação, mas recusei-me a deixar qualquer pensamento negativo entrar no meu caminho. Eu sabia que se eu tivesse alguma chance de sair dessas correntes, eu tinha que acreditar nisso e fazer o que fosse preciso. Nathan me pegou levantando pesos com meu único membro disponível/funcional na semana 2, isso contra as ordens médicas. Passo a passo, Reaprender a andar foi doloroso e assustador, durante minha fisioterapia eu usava uma cadeirinha de escalada sem peso em uma esteira. À medida que as semanas se transformaram em meses, comecei a recuperar minha aptidão, e percebi que me sentia mais incapacitada a andar do que escalar. Com a adrenalina correndo pelo meu corpo, e minha mente sendo sugada nos movimentos, escalar tornou-se um lugar para "descansar". Comecei a saborear minha reabilitação na parede de escalada do centro, esse foi meu apoio até volta para as montanhas. E então comecei meu retorno ao esporte que quase me matou. Mega obrigado ao meu marido Nathan Welton , aos meus patrocinadores Sterling Rope , Wild Country e Red Chili , e ao meu treinador Stian Christophersen pelo apoio nesse processo. Tradução: Rocha http://www.rannveigaamodt.com/upsidedown-rightsideup/
Falha de comunicação, para montar o top rope para os ingleses, assim que ela chegou na parada ela saiu da sua corda e entrou na corda os ingleses "onde não tinha segurança" e esqueceu de avisar para o marido da mudança de corda.
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