DOMINGOS GIOBBI - ESCALADA EM ARTIFICIAL NA PEDRA DO BAÚ

por Davi A. Marski Filho / abril 2007

Pois bem.. a via “Domingos Giobbi” é uma lenda na escalada artificial brasileira. Foi uma via conquistada em 1989 pelo Luis Makoto Ishibe (e Hugo Armelin), rapaz sério que mandou no passado o Cerro Torre na e a “Bagual Big Wall” na Agulha Poincenot, ambos na Patagônia.

Enfim... é uma escalada clássica, um desafio e quase um objetivo, um mantra a ser perseguido pelos escaladores que gostam do jogo da escalada artificial.

A via exige um grande comprometimento pois a partir da 2ª. Enfiada, o rapel não é mais possível, ou seja, a partir desse ponto você tem de continuar e sair dela.

Eu sempre procurei um parceiro para essa escalada em especial. Nunca achava ninguém que “topasse” encarar a via. Mais ou menos uns 18 meses atrás, o Rafael Ribeiro “topou”, e saímos em direção a São Bento do Sapucaí para mandar a “Domingos Giobbi”. Naquela época fomos até a base da via, levamos todo o equipamento e no dia seguinte, de madrugada, demos início a escalada em si.

Minto.

Na verdade, naquela primeira “investida” não escalamos nada. O Rafael na madrugada ficou bastante “adrenado” e disse que não ia escalar mais nada, que isso iria ficar para um outro momento.

Decisão extremamente acertada (só sei disso hoje, na época só podia xingar o Rafael).

Enfim... na semana da Páscoa de 2007, fomos novamente, eu e o Rafael para a tão falada “Domingos Giobbi”.

Tinhamos tudo o que julgamos necessário : 3 jogos de friends, 1 jogo de ballnutz, diversos hooks, nuts, batedor de Cliff, talons, comida, água (cerca de 10 litros), haulbag, duas cordas dinâmicas de 60m e uma corda estática de 50m.... e o mais importante de tudo : ambos nos julgávamos capazes de mandar a via sem maiores problemas.

Na sexta-feira (05/abril) levamos todo o equipamento até a base da via. Para chegar até a base da via é necessário fazer um rapel de exatos 60m, e então seguir uns 200 metros em direção aos “tetos” da pedra do Baú. Para retornar, é necessário jumarear pela corda utilizada para fazer o rapel. Pois bem, na sexta-feira, para ganharmos tempo, escalamos a primeira enfiada, rebocamos o haulbag, montamos um “varal” com o equipo e deixamos a corda estática para servir de corda fixa e jumarearmos no dia seguinte. Voltamos para o estacionamento da Pedra do Baú, montamos a barraca nas proximidades e dormimos. Essa primeira enfiada é super tranqüila, muito fácil (pode ser feita em um A1 ou em livre, coisa de 5 grau mais ou menos), e leva a um platô muito conveniente.

Ainda na sexta-feira, tivemos um pôr-do-sol realmente impressionante. A foto a seguir fala mais do que as minhas palavras :



No sábado (06/abril) acordamos por volta das 05:00h da madrugada, fizemos a caminhada até o “col”, montamos o rapel com corda dupla, descemos até a base, recolhemos a corda (a partir desse ponto, após recolhermos as cordas, já não tinha mais volta para a pedra do Baú, a não ser seguindo por trilhas no meio do mato).

Estávamos tensos. A “hora da verdade” havia chego.

Esse primeiro rapel foi o prenúncio de que algo não estava muito bem. Ao iniciar a descida pelas cordas, eu inadvertidamente montei o ATC invertido. “Rolou” o seguinte diálogo :

- Pô Davi, o que você está fazendo ?

- Fazendo o quê Rafael ? deixa se ser louco ! Eu vou rapelar !

- Mas Davi, olha o seu ATC !!!!

- O que é que tem o meu ATC ? Deixa ele quieto !

- Davi, o seu ATC está invertido !

- Invertido o Ca*hYzk## !!! acha que não sei montar um rapel ?!

Pois é... o ATC estava realmente montado errado. Quando me dei conta de um erro tão primário desses, não podia me perdoar. Aquilo estava sendo um mau augúrio tremendo.

Por volta das 06:30h já estávamos jumareando pela corda fixa que havíamos deixado no dia anterior.

Separamos os equipos, revisamos nossa logística e o Rafael começou a guiar a segunda enfiada.

A segunda enfiada começa logo na esquerda do platô, subindo em livre (um quarto ou quinto grau), e rapidamente encontra-se a primeira proteção fixa. O restante envolve uso de cliffs, nuts, ballnuts, friends e talons. Essa segunda enfiada é realmente um A2, com colocação moderada de peças. Algumas mais ou menos ruins, algumas mais ou menos piores... Os buracos de Cliff estavam todos “gastos” e foi necessário refazê-los com o batedor.

Demoramos uma eternidade para fazer a segunda enfiada. Não conhecíamos a via, o croqui muito básico, a demora na leitura da rota a ser seguida , que não é nada óbvia, invariavelmente sequer víamos onde estaria a próxima proteção fixa para auxiliar na leitura da via a ser seguida...

Chegamos no P3, reorganizamos os equipos, içamos o haulbag e novamente o Rafael mandou a 3ª. Enfiada.

A 3ª. Enfiada é um A3 de respeito. Um grande travessia negativa, com uns 25 a 30 metros em direção ao lado esquerdo da pedra.

 

A terceira enfiada foi muito sinistra. Colocação péssima das peças. Em toda a seqüência deveriam ter apenas algo entre 2 ou 3 peças que segurariam realmente uma queda.

O Rafael colocou um friend pequeno, testou, testou, e após estar alguns poucos segundos já com os estribos pendurado na peça, subitamente ele tomou a primeira queda.

Queda pequena, coisa de uns 2 metros. Ficou preso pela fita solteira regulável que ainda estava na peça anterior (ainda bem).

Adrenalina a mil. Silêncio demorado. Perguntas de praxe : “Você se machucou ?! Tudo bem por aí ?!” , após alguns segundos o Rafael responde que estava tudo ok e em ordem. Foi apenas o “susto”.

Enquanto eu seguida de segundo, o cansaço foi tomando posse do meu corpo. Minha auto-confiança simplesmente desapareceu. Um misto de “pânico” com sensação de “bundação” me assolou por completo.

Tomei a minha primeira queda : um friend deslocou-se e eu voei... voei “trocentos” metros em direção ao vazio, o estômago veio na boca. A sensação de “terror” era maior do que nunca. A descarga de adrenalina ao ouvir o “poc” do friend saindo é realmente indescritível. Só quem já caiu em artificial sabe o que é isso.

Peguei os jumares e comecei a subir pela corda retesada e presa à rocha sabe-se lá pelo o quê...

Após longos minutos vi que o que interrompeu a minha queda havia sido um ridículo micronut #2.

Continuei na seqüência. Novamente outra queda. Essa mais curta e sem tanta adrenalina.

O Rafael se atrapalha e deixa cair um ballnuts #3 e três friends. As peças demoram uma eternidade para chegar sabe-se lá aonde lá embaixo. Prejuízo.

Escureceu e já era “noite” de sábado. Eu ainda não havia chego ao final da 3ª. Enfiada. A headlamp no haulbag. Tudo escuro e faltava menos de 2 metros para a parada da via e eu não conseguia encontrar os buracos de Cliff... Ainda no escuro peguei um Camalot #4, coloquei ele por debaixo do teto, subi o mais que pude e ainda tateando, finalmente consegui encontrar o buraco de cliff.

Com a terceira parada dominada, nos restava apenas tentar passar a noite da melhor (ou menos pior) forma possível.

Nossa expectativa ou pretensão de conseguir repetir a via em um dia foi totalmente infundada. E isso se refletiva no nosso despreparo para a situação na qual nos encontrávamos : teríamos de passar a noite, em um ambiente hostil, com vento e muito frio, sem estarmos preparados para tal.

O Rafael apenas de shorts. Com uma manta térmica aluminizada tentou fazer uma espécie de proteção para as pernas. Improvisamos um “banco” com os rolos de corda. Com as fitas montamos uma espécie de baudrier torácico, que mantinha o nosso corpo firme enquanto dormíamos. O rafael conseguia apoiar a cabeça em duas fitas que estavam tensionadas, eu por minha vez, conseguia apoiar a lateral da cabeça no cantil MSR.

Noite péssima. Pesadelos, devaneios, delírios e muito xingamento.

Domingo, 08 de abril. Amanhece. 5:30h da manhã.

Discussão entre nós. Eu não me sinto seguro para mandar a 4ª. Enfiada (A2). Após muita discussão e xingamento, o Rafael inicia por volta das 06:30h a 4ª. Enfiada.

Lance sinistro de descida e pêndulo em busca de buracos de Cliff, proteção em piton, finalmente viramos em direção a via “normal” do Baú. Outro piton e a 4ª. Enfiada segue por uma fenda em direção ao teto do Baú.

Esta seria uma rota de fuga possível para a via. O Rafael muito acertadamente, logo após dominar a “virada” na 4ª. Enfiada, saiu em livre, coisa de 20 ou 25 metros em direção a rota normal. Coisa de 4º. Grau em aderência e em regletes.

Não... não acabou... Chovia quase que torrencialmente. O Rafael fez o rapel de 60m a partir do final da “Normal” do Baú em direção a trilha, mandamos o haulbag pela linha do rapel e em seguida foi a minha vez. Lá embaixo tentamos retirar a corda... ok... lembrávamos que de uma outra vez que fizemos rapel pelo mesmo lugar a corda realmente havia ficado com bastante atrito e não saia facilmente... mas dessa vez, com o peso da corda molhada foi impossível conseguirmos retirar a corda... Já era por volta das 14:00h, estávamos cansados, com fome e com frio.

Decidimos deixar as duas cordas de 60m no rapel “errado” da via “normal” e irmos embora, tomar um banho, comer alguma coisa e voltar no dia seguinte. Com aquele tempo ruim e aquela chuva, com certeza ninguém mais iria aparecer no Baú.

Decisão tomada, decisão feita.

Fomos para o abrigo do Eliseu Frechou, tomamos um merecido banho e em seguida fomos jantar na cidade.

Na segunda-feira logo cedo fomos para o Baú, fizemos a rota normal, recolhemos a corda que estava presa no rapel, pegamos a estrada e voltamos para casa.

Cansados... felizes... satisfeitos....

Analisando mais calmamente as coisas depois, chegamos a conclusão que apesar de tudo o saldo foi muito positivo : aumentamos o nosso grau de tolerância e experiência como escaladores, e mesmo tendo entrado em uma “senhora roubada”, conseguimos sair dela ilesos e sem depender de nenhum tipo de ajuda externa. Isso é o que mais importa.

Mais cedo ou mais tarde voltaremos com mais calma, mais experiência e certamente faremos melhor e mais rápido.

Resumo da via (elaborado a partir de um resumo prévio do André Zancanaro) :

Equipamentos necessários :

· 2 jogos de friends (pode repetir mais de uma vez os pequeninos)

· 2 taloons

· 2 cliffs de agarra

· 1 dayse chain para cada pessoa (é o suficiente) e /ou solteira regulável

· Nuts, micronuts e ballnutsz ajudam muito

· Fifi hook

· mosquetões diversos

· varias fitas

· grigri ajuda muito

· estribos (2 pares para cada)

· 2 cordas de 60m

· Capacete, headlamp, blusa de frio, anorak, comida, água...



Descrição “tosca” da via.

No momento desse relato, todos os buracos de Cliff até o final da 3ª. Enfiada foram arrumados por nós e estão em ordem.

1º enfiada: Livre, começa pelo lado direito do diedro. Proteja com uma fita grande em um bico de pedra no 1º lance (bote uns friends grandes pra manter a fita no lugar). Vá para o diedro...proteja com friends e nuts e faça a investida...virada fácil mas cuidado com pedras soltas no seu parceiro lá em baixo). Na verdade, muito cuidado com o parceiro na base da via, existem muitas pedras soltas no platô. Não gostou e quer poupar energia ? Dá para subir em artificial A1 pelo lado esquerdo do diedro. Deve ser um 4sup.

2º enfiada:Platô bom, começa em livre de bota mesmo...proteja em grampos...acho que são dois e ai começam os cliffs (3 buracos ótimos e um ruim que nem precisa usar)...protege na chapa dai vai para uns blocos grandes (projete com friend grande ou camalot #4)...vai subindo com médios e pequenos...se quiser use cliff de agarra em uma fenda horizontal grande...sobe mais um pouco...friends médios...ai vc chega em uma parada intermediária...toca reto pra cima meio para esquerda...sai da parada protegendo com camalot 0.75...mais um friend...cliffs de buraco novamente (acho que são 3)...bate na chapa...mais dois furinhos...Parada tripla. A partir dessa enfiada não dá mais para fazer rapel. Oi sai pela rota de fuga na 4a. enfiada ou sai pelo cume.

3º enfiada: Parada tripla, sai pra esquerda e para cima na parada (não sobe reto não senão tu vai parar na mela cueca. Sai de nut...friends pequenos...nut...chapa...dá para tirar uns 5 metros em livre pela esqueda ou vai tocando em aid mesmo...cliff......acho que tem mais uma chapa...dai tem uma sequencia de friends pequenos, embaixo do teto dá para proteger com um Camalot #4 e vira o teto em cliff de buraco...bota um friend pequeno e domina a parada.

4º enfiada: Sai de friend grande...esquerda...chapa com mosquetão.....desce... em direção ao piton. Antes do piton são dois buracos de Cliff. friends médios....toca até a parada tranqüilo em livre. Atenção : o segundo pode aliviar o pendulo com a retinida). Nesse momento, logo após a saída do segundo piton, dá para ver a rota “normal” do baú. Dá para sair como via de escape antes de acabar a 4ª. Enfiada, deve dar coisa de 20 ou 25 metros em livre. Tente proteger com friends pequenos em caso de fuga da via.

5º enfiada: Sai em livre da parada...em direção a fenda...protege com freind grande...domina o plato e bota friend médio...dai para cima continua fácil em friend pequeno e nuts de montão...domina a base facinho (montar ela com friend 0,75 e 0,5 + os pitons que tem lá)

6º enfiada: Friends pequenos...médios;....depois tem cliff de buraco...friend bomba...sai em livre 5º grau.



Fonte: http://www.marski.org/artigos/histo...giobbi-escalada-em-artificial-na-pedra-do-bau

 

Eu e o André decidimos escalar essa via, no dia 19 de Agosto de 2017 isso se o clima permitir, inicialmente vamos até a P3 e em outra oportunidade tocamos pra cima. Mas se estivermos animados e com a logística funcionando... talvez terminamos nesse mesmo fds.

Vamos levar duas Gopro para registrar nossa aventura e depois coloco o relato aqui.

 

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