Dedo de Deus: Um ou dois dias ? _ OK, estou subindo. Eram 13:00hs e eu começava a guiar a Maria Cebola, o segundo ponto de encordamento no Dedo de Deus, em Teresópolis. Havíamos saído do asfalto às 7 e meia, e caminhamos duas horas até a Toca da Cuíca. Começa aí o trecho de cabos de aço, que levaria mais duas horas para ser vencido pelo grupo de sete pessoas, com mochilas nas costas. O fato de ter chegado ao primeiro ponto de encordamento às onze dava a impressão de que conseguiríamos concluir a escalada naquele dia e ainda voltar à base logo ao anoitecer. Ledo engano. Duas horas para todos subirem e içarem as mochilas até a Maria Cebola. Este primeiro lance nem precisaria de encordamento para alguns, o que consumiu tempo foram as mochilas. Alguns meses antes havíamos escalado o Dedo em dois dias, pernoitando na Toca da Cuíca, para ganhar tempo. Eu sabia que poderia subir e descer em um dia, uma vez que já conhecia o caminho. Só não contava com problemas gerados pelas mochilas. Em cada lance, cada mochila gerava um atraso de quatro minutos, totalizando 28 minutos nas sete que carregávamos. Resultado: três horas de atraso no total. Chegamos numa caverninha (um monte de pedras que caíram entre duas outras, entalaram, formando o chão dela) logo abaixo do topo, às 18:30hs, e começava a garoar. Subi o lance que dava para a escadinha que leva ao cume. A pedra molhada me preocupava. Fui conferir os pontos para Rappel. O segundo rapel é delicado, deve-se passar de uma corda a outra sem um apoio decente, climpando um auto-seguro em uma argola(argola mesmo, não é grampo). Pensei na nossa situação: Os três que dirigiram desde São Paulo estavam acordados a pelo menos 36 horas. Os outros não dormiram direito, e estávamos na montanha há onze horas. Sempre trazemos lanternas, mas rapelar no escuro com cansaço seria abusar da sorte. Como não estava frio, resolvi sugerir a pernoite na caverninha. Ótimo. Sem sleep, sem isolante, e com poucas roupas. Emprestei uma camiseta e uma blusa para quem estava com frio. A combinação capa-de-chuva+camiseta me garantiu uma noite aquecida. Um blanket (reflete 80% do calor irradiado pelo corpo) que sempre carrego na mochila ajudou quatro, que se acomodaram sobre ele. O que incomodou mesmo foi ter de dormir sobre pedras, sem um platô. E as andorinhas, que fazem ninhos na caverna e "guincharam" a noite toda. Por volta das duas da manhã, acordo com a claridade da lua. Estava quase cheia, e as nuvens baixas, iluminadas por ela e pelas luzes de Teresópolis proporcionavam uma visão espetacular. Outros acordaram, e apreciaram comigo esta vista, que somente pode ser "saboreada" estando ali, naquele ponto da montanha. Cochilamos mais um pouco, e às seis nos preparávamos para sair. Por sorte, tínhamos água e comida. Batemos algumas fotos do amanhecer (lindo, por sinal), e concluímos a escalada. Assinamos o livro, mais algumas fotos, e saímos rápido, pois agora já se formavam nuvens de chuva. Chegamos à base em quatro horas. Não sem a chuva, que nos apanhou nos últimos quarenta minutos da descida, quando já estávamos na trilha. Não pudemos tomar banho no camping de Teresópolis, cujo dono se recusou a nos receber (o camping estava vazio, devido às chuvas da época), e acabamos conseguindo resolver a situação num "Hotel de curta permanência" da cidade. Essa foi a maior roubada dessa escalada. Eu ainda quero fazer uma alpina, subindo sem mochilas. Com certeza conseguiremos em doze horas. É uma questão de gastar um pouco de tempo em logística. Mas...também quero voltar a bivacar lá em cima. Se possível no topo, sob as estrelas e com a vista das cidades circ;unvizinhas, iluminadas. Pois é lá no topo, que nos sentimos integrados ao universo, livres, de fato. Algo que somente quem já esteve lá pode compartilhar. Se você nunca foi escalar o Dedo, vá. Se você já esteve no Dedo, e o fez em um dia, volte e faça em dois. Vale a pena. Na montanha, a noite também é um espetáculo, e escalar não é somente subir, mas apreciar tudo o que passamos. Estiveram lá comigo: Fábio, Duda, Pedro, Alê, Claudinha, e Kyoko. P.S. A escalada em si é fácil, com várias chaminés. A Maria Cebola, exposta, é onde se vai adrenar mais, caso esteja sem nuvens abaixo de você, pois são cerca de 400 metros de queda... Por: Massa Fonte: http://www.reocities.com/yosemite/6474/dedo01.htm
Já escalei o Dedo de Deus algumas vezes e fazemos a logística da seguinte forma: Saímos de SP as 7:00 chegando à Teresópolis +- 2:00; Acampamos na beira da estrada, próximo ao mirante; No dia seguinte acordamos entre 6 e 7 horas, comemos e partimos para a escalada; Retornamos no escuro, sendo que os rapéis tento terminar antes de escurecer se possível; Após chegar no carro tem a opção de retornar à cidade do Rio ou dormir na barraca novamente; Domingo retorno à SP de manhã ou após alguma outra escalada mais curta.
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