Estou a 40 metros do chão SOZINHO Tenho no rack da cadeirinha dois mosquetões e um ATC e também tenho um canivete no bolso. Tenho uma ancoragem no meio da descida, ou seja a 20 metros. Só tenho uma corda de 30m, e preciso chegar no chão Como fazer o rapel com segurança e chegar no chão? Obs.: Essa situação inusitada aconteceu, o escalador solou uma via de 40 metros carregando uma corda de 30 metros e conseguiu apenas com itens listados acima chegar em segurança na base da via.
Solução... Pega o canivete e se mata! Agora falando sério, eu pegaria o canivete e desencaparia a corda separando a Alma da Capa, depois uniria com um pescador duplo ou dois nós azelha e faria os rapeis.
1 - Dobre a corda de 30 metros em três partes de 10 metros e corte uma parte de 10 metros. 2- Pegue esse pedaço de 10 metros e fixe na ancoragem com um nó 8 e na outra extremidade faça um 8 direcionado. 3- Rapele esses 10 metros, e coloque o outro pedaço de 20 metros no nó 8 direcionado dobrada ao meio "Meiada". 4- Rapele mais 10 metros na corda de 20 metros dobrada. 5- Nesse momento você chegou na ancoragem no meio da descida e está a 20 metros do chão com uma corda de 20 metros então recolha a corda de 20 metros e fixe-a a ancoragem e rapele os 20 metros restantes.
Acho que, para esse tópico existem mais perguntas do que respostas ! Em primeiro lugar: Quem faz uma escalada solitária e carrega uma corda mais curta do que a via ? Praticando “Soloclimbing”, você costuma escalar vias com dificuldade em baixo de seu limite técnico. Se você escala vias até o 7° grau, provavelmente vai solar vias até no máximo o 5°+. Em teoria, deveria ser capaz de desescalar essa via. E, por final: Se ele já escalou 40 metros, por que não subir até o cume para descer por um caminho mais seguro. Mas, se for apenas uma situação hipotética, as minhas propostas para essa charada são os seguintes: A solução mais segura o William já apontou: Descapar a corda, dividir a alma em duas partes e juntar com o nó costumeiro para fazer rapel com duas cordas (Azelha ou Pescador duplo). No entanto, se a corda for da Beal, manufaturado pelo processo“Unicore”, será uma tarefa difícil pois, nesse tipo de corda, capa e alma são entrelaçadas. Existem dois nós que podem servir como último recurso para fazer rapel usando a extensão inteira da corda e ainda recuperar-la. Observação : Não use esses nós de brincadeira. Principalmente o segundo é delicado e, se não for confeccionado de forma adequada, abre facilmente. CASO QUEIRA EXPERIMENTAR, USE SEMPRE UMA SEGUNDA SEGURANÇA (Backup). Evite movimentos laterais, desça verticalmente e sem trancos, caso contrario os nós podem correr ! O primeiro é o nó de Garda: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ehws3tND9KnBT2LJ9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/28HGD8hRANRdfH928
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