NÓS AUTOBLOCANTES (PRUSIK E MACHARD) - COMPARATIVOS, VANTAGENS E DESVANTAGENS

Discussão em 'Nós utilizados em escalada' iniciado por Paulo Avila, 20/10/17.

  1. Paulo Avila

    Paulo Avila Member

    por Davi Marski, agosto de 2013

    Existem diversos nós autoblocantes, cada um deles com suas vantagens e desvantagens.

    Esses nós vão desde os que funcionam muito bem em apenas uma direção até os nós que bloqueiam quando tracionados em qualquer um dos sentidos da corda (para cima ou para baixo).

    De forma geral, para os propósitos do universo da escalada, esses nós se resumem apenas aos seguintes:

    • prusik
    • machard uni-direcional (ou kleinhest uni-direcional), chamado também de prusik "francês" uni-direcional
    • machard bi-direcional (ou kleinhest bi-direcional), chamado também de prusik "francês" bi-direcional ou ainda de autoblock
    [​IMG]

    respectivamente os nós prusik, machard uni-direcional e machard bi-direcional



    Aplicação Prusik Machard uni-dir. Machard bi-dir.
    backup no rapel sim sim sim
    ascensão por corda fixa sim sim sim
    sistema de redução de forças, içamentos, etc.. sim sim sim
    bloqueia em ambos os sentidos sim efetivo só numa dir. sim
    desbloqueio depois de receber carga ruim péssimo (invertido) sim
    pode ser executado com apenas uma mão sim difícil sim

    Uma dúvida muito comum diz respeito ao diâmetro do cordelete a ser utilizado, eu recomendo o cordelete de 6mm. Cordeletes de 7mm apesar de serem mais resistentes, são também mais volumosos... nem é necessário dizer que o cordelete deve ser fechado com o nó de "pescador duplo", com um mínimo de 3 cm de folga nas pontas.

    Quanto ao número de voltas, para o prusik, devem ser no mínimo 3 voltas. Para o machard, normalmente 3 ou 4 voltas são suficientes, mas atenção: quando a corda está molhada, pode ser necessário aumentar o número de voltas para que o bloqueio seja efetivo.
     
    Johano Enhiko e William Moya curtiram isso.
  2. William Moya

    William Moya Active Member

    Gostei desse machard bi-direcional, como será que se faz?
     
    Johano Enhiko curtiu isso.
  3. Johano Enhiko

    Johano Enhiko Member

    Willian, pensei a mesma coisa e fui procurar e descobri que eu já sabia fazer. Kkkkk
    Segue o link:
     
  4. William Moya

    William Moya Active Member

    Muito bom! Obrigado Johano
     
    Johano Enhiko curtiu isso.
  5. Caio R. do Prado

    Caio R. do Prado New Member

    Bom dia pessoal, tenho uma dúvida, o nó machard funciona em corda dupla? Abraço e boa semana a todos
     
  6. Jack

    Jack New Member

    Funciona sim!
     
  7. Jack

    Jack New Member

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