por Davi Marski, agosto de 2013 Existem diversos nós autoblocantes, cada um deles com suas vantagens e desvantagens. Esses nós vão desde os que funcionam muito bem em apenas uma direção até os nós que bloqueiam quando tracionados em qualquer um dos sentidos da corda (para cima ou para baixo). De forma geral, para os propósitos do universo da escalada, esses nós se resumem apenas aos seguintes: prusik machard uni-direcional (ou kleinhest uni-direcional), chamado também de prusik "francês" uni-direcional machard bi-direcional (ou kleinhest bi-direcional), chamado também de prusik "francês" bi-direcional ou ainda de autoblock respectivamente os nós prusik, machard uni-direcional e machard bi-direcional Aplicação Prusik Machard uni-dir. Machard bi-dir. backup no rapel sim sim sim ascensão por corda fixa sim sim sim sistema de redução de forças, içamentos, etc.. sim sim sim bloqueia em ambos os sentidos sim efetivo só numa dir. sim desbloqueio depois de receber carga ruim péssimo (invertido) sim pode ser executado com apenas uma mão sim difícil sim Uma dúvida muito comum diz respeito ao diâmetro do cordelete a ser utilizado, eu recomendo o cordelete de 6mm. Cordeletes de 7mm apesar de serem mais resistentes, são também mais volumosos... nem é necessário dizer que o cordelete deve ser fechado com o nó de "pescador duplo", com um mínimo de 3 cm de folga nas pontas. Quanto ao número de voltas, para o prusik, devem ser no mínimo 3 voltas. Para o machard, normalmente 3 ou 4 voltas são suficientes, mas atenção: quando a corda está molhada, pode ser necessário aumentar o número de voltas para que o bloqueio seja efetivo.
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