Responda de forma honesta a você mesmo: Você é capaz de montar uma ancoragem equalizada e multi-direcional? Você sabe para que serve uma "extensão" em uma ancoragem, e por quais razões elas podem vir a serem necessárias? Você sabe qual é tamanho efetivo no qual uma peça móvel (tipo um "friend") pode ser utilizado? Você sabe quando é necessário aumentar a distância da costura quando utiliza uma proteção móvel? Você sabe qual é a força gerada no sistema de proteção em uma típica queda do guia? E em uma escalada "top rope", qual é a força gerada em uma queda? E com respeito a daisy chains ou solteiras (auto-seguro), quais seriam as opções melhores e mais seguras de ancorar-se ? Você sabe quando a segurança deve ser dada a partir da sua cadeirinha e quando a segurança deve ser dada a partir da ancoragem? E como dar a segurança a partir da ancoragem? E quando é conveniente e quando é inadequado utilizar um freio semi-automático (como o grigri ou o cinch) e freios tubulares (como o ATC) ? Você sabe como "sair" da corda na qual você está dando segurança (através de um ATC ou Grigri) sem liberar o seu parceiro da segurança ? Você sabe como de forma rápida e fácil aumentar a distância do seu ponto principal de ancoragem ? Quando você está dando segurança para o participante, a partir da ancoragem, você sabe como já deixar o rapel montado para você enquanto o participante não chega na "parada" ? Você sabe fazer o backup durante o rapel ? Se o seu parceiro de escalada se machucar em uma escalada de múltiplas enfiadas, você sabe como rapelar com o seu parceiro até a base da parede, mesmo o seu parceiro não estando fisicamente capaz de ajudar ? Se você tiver que emendar duas cordas e baixar seu parceiro de escalada por 120m, você sabe como fazer isso de forma adequada ? e para atravessar o nó de união das cordas pelo mecanismo de frenagem ? E se o seu parceiro não puder ajudar em nada durante essa descida ? Você sabe como utilizar vantagens mecânicas para subir o seu parceiro até a "parada" se for necessário ? Você sabe as vantagens e as desvantagens de fazer rapel duplo, simultâneo e contrabalanceado ? Como você gerencia a corda nas paradas ? e se forem duas cordas ? e em paradas "suspensas" ou em "negativos" ? E como você gerencia a corda quando alternam-se as pessoas que irão guiar a escalada ? e quando é a mesma pessoa que irá guiar todas as enfiadas? Resposta a qualquer uma dessas perguntas é a seguinte: quanto mais você conhece a respeito destas nuances e tecnicidades da escalada, mais você aumenta sua experiência, e mais diversão você consegue obter de forma segura durante suas escaladas. Na escalada, grandes conhecimentos sucedem a grandes aventuras
Nossa, interessantíssimo esse post. Gostei MT do fórum TD. Primeiramente, quero dizer que a me considero escalador iniciante, pois escalo faz 1 ano. Já consigo guiar um VI grau. Se permite uma intervenção, a resposta a essas perguntas acima podem ser encontradas em livros inclusive, correto? Vc me indicaria alguma bibliografia? Grande abraço e obrigado.
A maioria das perguntas acima se referem ao conteúdo de um curso de autorresgate ou de guiada em móvel e não um curso básico de escalada. Para o auto-resgate eu recomendo: Climbing Self Rescue do Andy Tyson e Molly Loomis.
Entendi, Paulo. Só uma correção. Eu disse q guiava um VI mãe na vdd quis dizer IV. Kkkkk pois ainda estou iniciando.... Vou procurar por essa bibliografia. Será q em livrarias físicas encontro? Nas virtuais tá difícil achar.... valeu Abc.
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